A bird flu outbreak is sweeping the globe. Its long-term effects are unclear
Avian influenza has killed millions of birds and other animals
Staff Writer
As I step among poop-covered rocks toward the plateau of a small island in the Galápagos, a part of me rejoices. Not only am I about to see the archipelago’s famed blue-footed boobies for the first time, but the sight of guano everywhere, and birds to make fresh batches, serves as a reminder: The ongoing avian influenza outbreak has not yet ravaged this picturesque place.
Ghostly, leafless Palo Santo trees and saltbushes sprinkle the island, surrounded by boulders in varying shades of red-tinged black and brown. White splotches of guano splattered on rocks are hard to miss against this arid landscape on North Seymour Island in November, the tail end of the dry season. The poop’s sources are similarly difficult to overlook.
The island is known for hosting a large colony of magnificent frigatebirds (Fregata magnificens), some of which hang suspended in the air above tourists’ heads as we disembark from a dinghy and scramble up the rocky path. As I admire the birds’ fabulous red throat sacs — which males inflate like balloons to attract females — I hope that none deposit excrement on my head.
A short walk along a dusty trail brings us to, in my opinion, the stars of the show, blue-footed boobies (Sula nebouxii). The dopey looking birds show no sign of fear even as we cluster around their nests eagerly snapping photos.
That I had the chance to visit these birds on North Seymour at all — amid all their poop — was a relief after traveling more than 5,000 kilometers for a vacation in Galápagos National Park. Just two months before, at the end of September, news broke that deadly avian influenza had reached the archipelago.