By Ron Cowen
Built atop a 12th-century tower in the royal palace of Sicily, the Palermo Observatory has a commanding view of domed cathedrals, an ornate opera house, and an ancient gateway with rooftop gallery and colonnade. But what really draws the eye are the craggy mountains on the horizon.
At noon, they frame the aqua-blue ocean as in a picture postcard; at dusk, they surround the Italian city like the walls of a fortress.